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Yes, limewash on brick can accumulate dust over time. Its porous nature can attract dust particles, especially in environments with high levels of dust or dirt. Additionally, if the limewash surface is left unsealed, it may be more prone to collecting dust. Additionally, incorrectly applied limewash will generate dust. Causes include applying it too thickly instead of thin layers and not allowing enough drying time between layers. Regular maintenance, such as gentle cleaning or dusting, can help mitigate dusty issues.

Solid brick structures can last a century or more, potentially 100 to 150 years with proper maintenance like tuckpointing. Without major repairs, classic red bricks may last 20 to 40 years. Brick veneer siding is also a long-lasting material, with a lifespan ranging from 50 to 100 years, provided it is properly installed and maintained. To maintain brick veneer, you should scrub it annually with a special detergent and a soft-bristled broom. It's also important to inspect the bricks and mortar regularly and hire a masonry contractor for any necessary repairs, such as fixing worn mortar or bowing bricks.

The cost of masonry work varies widely depending on the type of masonry along with common cost factors like size, complexity, location, and season. Most exterior masonry work done in freezing temperatures tends to cost more because of the preparation and protection involved to keep the masonry from freezing before the mortar cures properly. The average price ranges per project or square foot for different types of masonry include:

• Brick wall (fence, garden wall, etc.): $10–$45 per square foot

• Natural stone wall: $40–$110 per square foot

• Manufactured stone veneer: $20–$40 per square foot

• Brick home exterior: $10–$30 per square foot

• Brick siding: $3–$10 per square foot

• Stone siding: $35–$50 per square foot

• Brick step replacement: $20–$30 per square foot

• Brick wall repair: $20–$40 per square foot

• Chimney repairs: $160–$750 per project

• Tuckpointing: $5–$25 per square foot

When painting brick, each application method has distinct advantages and disadvantages. Spraying is significantly faster but may not penetrate deeply beyond the surface layer. Rolling is effective for working paint into the brick's texture but can be less effective on mortar joints. If you opt for a roller, choose a thick nap of at least a half-inch to ensure paint gets into all the crevices for even coverage. Using a brush is generally not recommended as it is very time-consuming and provides poor surface penetration. Ultimately, a combination of spraying followed by back-rolling is often the best strategy for a durable and even finish.