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According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), hazardous waste is generally classified into four main categories:

1. Characteristic Wastes: These exhibit at least one of four hazardous traits: ignitability (flammable, like gasoline), corrosivity (can rust or decompose materials, like car batteries), reactivity (unstable and can explode, like aerosol cans), or toxicity (harmful when ingested, like lead-based paint).

2. Listed Wastes: These are specific wastes from manufacturing and industrial processes that the EPA has officially designated as hazardous. They include byproducts from processes that use solvents, pesticides, and other chemicals.

3. Universal Wastes: These are commonly generated hazardous items that are subject to streamlined regulations. Examples include batteries, pesticides, mercury-containing equipment (e.g., bulbs), and some lamps.

4. Mixed Wastes: This category includes waste that contains both hazardous and radioactive components, making it subject to regulation by both the EPA and the Nuclear Regulatory Commission.

Unfortunately, lead dust does not look different from any other type of dust. You cannot detect it with the naked eye. To determine if you have lead dust in your home, you will need to hire a local company to take a sample from the paint and test it for you in a lab.

Lead removal can take a few days to several weeks, depending on the work needed, particularly if the lead is widespread and in hard-to-reach areas.

The safest way to remove lead-based paint is by letting a professional take over. For most people, lead paint removal costs an average of $3,400. You should never attempt to dry sand old lead-based paint surfaces by hand. Most professionals use a paint stripper to do the job followed by wet scraping, but if you don’t want to remove lead paint, another option is to paint over it. Only consider this option if the old lead paint finish isn’t flaking or cracked.