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The most practical and common setup is a toilet that connects with the sewer line or a septic tank. However, it is possible to install a toilet without a sewer line, and this can be particularly helpful in basements with no or outdated plumbing. An increasingly popular option is an environmentally friendly composting toilet. Other waterless options include incinerating or dry flush toilets, which pull the waste into an airtight container.

While you don’t have to run out and immediately buy a new toilet at the first sign of a clog, if the toilet keeps clogging because it’s a low-flow or poorly designed model, a new toilet may be the way to go. If your toilet keeps clogging, you can try using less toilet paper, adjusting the fill valve, checking the toilet vent pipe on the roof, and using a toilet auger to make sure nothing is stuck in the pipe or trap.

The order of your bathroom renovation should prevent damage to the completed work. Start with demolition and removing the old fixtures. Then, address structural repairs or water damage, if needed. Next, tackle the rough-in phase for plumbing and electrical work, install waterproofing, and work on wall treatments like tile or paint. Install your shower or bathtub, toilet, vanity, and sink. Flooring goes in after major fixtures but before the toilet. Lastly, install new lighting fixtures, mirrors, and other finishing touches as desired.

Even though they’re modern-looking, easier to clean, can be hung at any height, and help save space compared to traditional toilets, wall-hung toilets have some downsides. They’re more expensive than standard toilets, sometimes by a few hundred dollars. They’re also difficult to install and may require major plumbing work to reroute the drain if the previous toilet was a floor-mount model.

This tight fit can make repairs more difficult. You’ll also have to consider where you can hang them and weight limit restrictions, so they may not be the best fit for every home.