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You can use a chainsaw, but it won’t remove the entire stump or root ball and is not a recommended method. It takes quite a bit of physical work to achieve and will likely dull or ruin your chainsaw. Instead, consider using salt, herbicide, light deprivation, boiling water, stump grinding, or burning to kill a tree stump. These methods allow you to kill a stump using minimal machinery and physical exertion.

In most cases, you should not use a pruning seal on trees after trimming. Applying a sealant can interfere with the tree's natural healing process, and it does not guarantee protection from pathogens. Instead of sealing the cut, the best practice is to support the tree's natural recovery by providing it with plenty of water and a dormant-style fertilizer. However, there are exceptions. Pruning seals may be recommended for very vulnerable species, like elm trees, in areas where dangerous diseases such as Dutch elm disease are prevalent. In these specific situations, the protection offered by a sealant can outweigh its downsides. For advice tailored to your situation, especially after cutting large branches, it is best to consult a local tree trimming professional.

The best time to trim trees is in late fall through winter when the tree has slowed its growing for the year. Cold weather stops insects and fungal growth from attacking a new tree wound. Summer and fall are considered the worst times to trim trees, but it’s permissible in certain scenarios, such as tree disease, damaged branches, or small, aesthetic cuts.

Trees aren't big fans of moving, and they do go into shock during a transplant. Although most carefully thought-out tree transplants see the tree recover from the shock just fine, there is always a risk of having an unsuccessful move. Proper preparation, timing, and diligent aftercare are crucial to minimize the risks when transplanting a tree.