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Three inches is a great thickness for a residential asphalt driveway that sees minimal to moderate traffic from cars, SUVs, and pickup trucks. However, a thicker driveway can better withstand the weight of a heavier vehicle, such as a trailer or a recreational vehicle. If you drive a heavy vehicle on a thin driveway, you risk cracking and damaging it.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

The driveway apron is a technical term referring to where a private driveway meets the public street. If there is a sidewalk in front of the house, the driveway apron is typically on the opposite side of the public sidewalk from the driveway itself.

In most cases, you don’t need a permit to repave your driveway, although some exceptions exist. If you’re widening your driveway and plan on widening the apron as well, you’ll usually need a permit from the Department of Transportation in your area. This permit costs between $50 and $300 in most cases. Most municipalities will also require a certified and insured contractor do the work relating to the apron and curb cut. You can contact your building department or ask your paving company if you need a permit. Your driveway professional will usually pull the permit for you.