Get matched with top lawn irrigation specialists in Kane, PA

It’s a good idea to aerate your lawn in the fall or spring when there is plenty of moisture in the soil. If you plan to aerate twice annually, you can do so once in the fall and once in the spring. You don’t want to aerate when your grass is dormant, and you also don’t want to aerate directly after a big rain, as the soil will be too wet for the aeration to be effective.

If it’s been a few weeks and you haven’t seen anything pop up, double-check your seed packet and make sure you didn’t miss any steps. Did they need cold stratification (putting seeds in the freezer and then transferring to water before planting)? Do they have an exceptionally long germination period? 

 If you’ve followed all of the directions closely, you may just have had a bad batch of seeds. (Sadly, it happens.)

Try the tool test first. A screwdriver or a similarly long, thin tool will work best, as spades and shovels are too big. If something still seems off despite the screwdriver smoothly going into the soil, look for other signs that you need aeration, like thinning grass, discolored areas, and puddles forming on your lawn after light rain. This indicates poor drainage because of too many areas being compacted.

To prepare your lawn for core aeration, water it the day before you aerate. (Alternatively, you can wait until it rains and aerate the following day.) Aerating after watering or a rainy day will make the process easier since you can penetrate moist soil better than dry soil. You should also flag your sprinklers so that you don’t accidentally hit them while aerating. If you have a lot of thatch buildup in your yard, you might need to dethatch your lawn before aerating as well.