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Yes, unfortunately, it is normal for wall and floor tiles to crack, especially when you drop heavy items on tiled floors or place heavy objects on them. Tiles are also more susceptible to cracking when ceramic tiles designed for walls are installed on floors, as these are often not strong enough to handle heavy loads from foot traffic and furniture. Similarly, tiles that are installed incorrectly, lack adequate subflooring, or have other installation problems are prone to cracking. To avoid these problems and the inevitable repair and replacement costs they bring, always hire a professional for tile work and follow best practices for installation.

No, tiling over painted walls or wallpapered surfaces is generally not recommended. Textured surfaces and paints will affect the adhesive, possibly causing tiles to lift or fall off. Painted walls with a semi-gloss or high-gloss finish are particularly difficult for adding tiles. It’s wise to strip the paint first if you install the tiles to drywall, although it’s still best to opt for a cement backer board.

For glass tile, you want to use unsanded grout. Sanded grout is a stronger and grittier cement grout that is great for installing tiles with wider gaps and into joints. However, it is susceptible to scratching glass tile and is more difficult to use in thinner gaps. Unsanded grout, while more expensive, is easier to fit between thin gaps and is less harsh on delicate materials, like glass tile.

The process takes two to four days, depending on the size of the area and your experience level. The first day involves assessing and prepping the existing tile, while the second day is for laying the new tile. This may take longer in complex areas. After letting the adhesive dry for 24 hours, grouting and sealing can be completed on day three. For larger projects or intricate tile patterns, expect the timeline to stretch a bit longer. Also, proper drying time between steps is essential for long-lasting results, which extends the project’s time.