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There are six levels of drywall finish, from 0 to 5, that refer to the amount of work performed during the finishing process.

Level 0: Drywall is hung with no finishing work.

Level 1: Tape is placed over the seams between drywall sheets.

Level 2: A thin layer of mud is applied over the tape and screw holes. This level is common for utility rooms or walls that will be covered.

Level 3: A full coat of mud covers the screw holes and tape, but the surface is not sanded. This is often used in garages.

Level 4: This is the most common finish for visible interior walls. It involves applying two coats of mud over seams and screw holes, with sanding between each coat, creating a smooth surface ready for flat paint.

Level 5: This is a high-end finish for luxury homes. It includes full taping, mudding, and sanding, plus a final skim coat over the entire surface before painting.

Knowing what causes drywall damage can help stop it before it starts. Here are some of the most common causes of drywall damage: 

• Water damage from roof leaks or leaky pipes. 

• Small holes caused by doorknobs, minor accidents, and rodent infestations. 

• Wall dents stemming from moving furniture and minor accidents. 

• Wall cracks that form from a settling foundation or seismic activity. 

• Nail pops from nails and screws in the walls. 

• Large holes that are caused by accidents with heavy objects, children and pets, or sporting equipment.

Although they are used for similar tasks, spackle and joint compound are not the same. Joint compound, also known as drywall mud, consists of limestone and gypsum and is primarily used for large-scale projects like taping and finishing seams on new drywall. Spackle is composed of gypsum and binding agents, making it a thicker compound best suited for small wall repairs like filling nail holes or cracks, as it dries quickly and is easy to sand. For small repairs, either product can be suitable. However, you can use joint compound for small jobs in place of spackle, but you cannot use spackle for large-scale taping and mudding projects.

A 50-pound mirror can be hung on drywall, but only if it has the support of strong hardware. Ideally, you can find the studs behind the drywall and attach the mirror to them; this will give your mirror better stability. Otherwise, confirm that you are using anchors appropriate to the weight of the mirrors. Another technique is to use French cleats—two pieces of wood that fit together, with one piece attached to the wall and the other to the mirror. This allows the weight to be distributed over a wider area.