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Hydroseeding over an existing lawn is possible, but certain adjustments are necessary since the process is for bare soil. Hydroseed mix is ​​usually very thick, which helps protect the seeds during germination. If you have existing grass on your site and still want to hydroseed, it's better to use a finer mulch mixture when spraying. A finer mulch mix means the seeds can root into existing soil without suffocating the existing grass.

Yes! Aerating your lawn during its dormancy period—usually over winter and early spring—can cause a disturbance that the grass may not easily recover from. Instead, you should aerate your lawn during its peak growth period, usually in the late summer or early fall (though with some variation based on specific grass type).

There are several ways to decompose yard waste quickly. The first step is to move all debris into a compost bin or pile. From there, microorganisms, bacteria, and insects will break down the yard waste into compost. To speed things up, shred the waste into smaller pieces, add live worms to the pile, or introduce nitrogen-rich compost accelerators like grass clippings, coffee grounds, and manure. Turn the compost over every few days. This process, called aerating, allows oxygen to get in and accelerate decomposition.

Watering the lawn after aeration is crucial for getting the most benefits out of it. Not watering the lawn enough will cause the efforts of aeration to be in vain. Light and frequent watering will prevent the soil and grass seeds from drying out, but too much watering can create a muddy mess and wash the seeds away. Watering twice a day is a good benchmark.