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No. You should never directly drain a water softener into a sewer cleanout. This practice is illegal in many areas because it could allow raw sewage to get into your drinking water and make you seriously ill. Many places have codes requiring a specific seal, pipe, and a large air gap between a water softener and a sewage cleanout. Check out Florida's Plumbing Building Code as an example of what these restrictions might look like.

Because it’s been through the water cycle, evaporating and becoming slightly acidic thanks to dissolved carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, rainwater tends to be naturally soft compared to groundwater, which has just been in contact with limestone. However, the natural hardness level of water always depends on where you are and other factors.

The most accurate way to determine whether you have hard water is to purchase a water test kit from a hardware store or send a tap water sample to a lab. But there are some signs you can look out for without professional testing. For instance, if you're consistently dealing with mineral stains on your glassware, windows, and shower doors, you're likely to have hard water. Hard water can also make it harder to lather and rinse soap, so if you're struggling to work up a good lather in the shower, hard water might be the culprit.

It’s not a good idea to oversize your water softener. Doing so will mean the tank doesn’t get full, which can lead to channeling. This leads to a large portion of the resin beads not being utilized and the beads at the bottom of the tank being overused. Over time, this will reduce the efficiency of your system, not to mention that the upfront cost of an oversized softener is unnecessarily high. If you have a timed regeneration cycle rather than a demand-based one, you’ll also spend far more on replacing salt than you need to.