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The best way to make long, straight cuts is to use a utility knife and a T-square to score the sheet, snap along the score, and then finish the cut by cutting through the paper on the opposite side with the utility knife. If you’re making small cuts, curved cuts, or cutouts for electrical boxes or light fixtures, you can use a manual jab saw to keep costs down, but an electric spiral saw or oscillating multi-tool will get the cleanest, fastest cuts possible.

While it’s most common to sand plaster dry, it is possible to wet-sand plaster, too. Doing so can reduce the amount of plaster dust released into the air and make it easier to work in smaller, more delicate areas (such as around wall trim). However, some people find that wet sanding leads to more imperfections, which is why larger walls are more often dry sanded to ensure an even finish.

There shouldn’t be any gaps between your walls and ceiling. These can be fixed with joint compound but that is only a fix, and it’s much better if your drywall fits correctly in the first place. Sometimes gaps can appear if your foundation shifts significantly but if this is the case, you have a much bigger problem than patching drywall.

While every home has its own unique needs, ceiling drywall installation typically follows a staggered or stepped pattern to enhance structural integrity and reduce the visibility of seams. Starting from one corner, sheets are placed perpendicular to the ceiling joists, with the ends of adjacent sheets meeting along the center of the joist. The next row begins with a half sheet, ensuring joints don't align vertically. This alternating pattern, combined with proper taping and mudding, creates a seamless appearance and strengthens the ceiling structure, minimizing the risk of cracks over time.