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Paving is a part of hardscaping, so all paving is hardscaping, but not all hardscaping is paving. Paving involves laying down concrete or asphalt, while hardscaping can also include the use of paving stones, bricks, gravel, wood, and more. Hardscape features that involve paving are considered permanent and will increase your property taxes, while some other hardscaping features—like those involving bricks, gravel, and paving stones—will not affect property taxes. Paving also typically requires a permit, while hardscaping features considered temporary will not.

If your driveway is cracked, you can repave it with a process called asphalt overlay. Overlay is more cost-effective than a full replacement but is better suited for minor cracks and issues. If you have major cracks or other problems like water pooling, asphalt overlay isn’t your best bet. Plus, paving over a cracked driveway only extends the lifetime by about 10 years, whereas replacing it would start the clock over completely to give you up to 30 years.

The driveway apron is a technical term referring to where a private driveway meets the public street. If there is a sidewalk in front of the house, the driveway apron is typically on the opposite side of the public sidewalk from the driveway itself.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.