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As a safety measure, you should always turn off the main breaker while operating your generator’s backup breaker. In addition, you should also switch off all appliance breakers so you don't have a power surge when the main breaker turns back on. And finally, turning off the main breaker prevents back-feeding, which endangers utility workers with the risk of electrocution. Back-feeding could also destroy the electrical circuits of your neighbors if they use the same power network.

While the rating will tell you how many watts the refrigerator needs at the peak of its cycle, it requires additional wattage to start. At the bare minimum, you’ll need a 1,500-watt generator to get the fridge up and running after a blackout. A 2,000-watt generator should be sufficient for most home refrigerators.

Generators are usually sized by running watts and starting watts. Ideally, you’ll want a generator that can offer both the necessary running watts and starting watts for everything you need to power without going beyond 90% of its capacity. Calculate your home’s electrical load based on the breakers in your home or adding up the appliance and lighting needs of connected rooms.

In most municipalities, you will need a permit to install a permanent home generator, including emergency backup, partial-home, and whole-home generators. A permit for a generator usually costs between $50 and $250, depending on where you live. Your electrician or certified generator installer will usually pull the permit for you—and might be required to do so by your building department—but you’ll be on the hook for the cost of the permit. You should ask your installer before agreeing to any work if they will pull the necessary permits for your project.