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No. Removing the cause of concern will only lead to deeper concern. You cannot use any fire-powered appliance like a fireplace or furnace without an escape route for the smoke and fumes. If you remove the flue intending to repair or replace it, you should only use the fireplace, wood stove, or furnace once the flue is in working order. If you cannot replace the flue you have removed, call a chimney repair professional immediately.

Yes, a faulty or broken light switch can be a serious fire hazard. Malfunctioning switches, often due to loose connections, exposed wiring, or overheating, can cause sparking or arcing. If you hear a crackling, popping, or hissing sound when you use the switch, it indicates live electricity arcing inside, which is a significant hazard that can ignite nearby flammable materials. If you suspect your light switch is faulty, turn off the power to that circuit at the breaker and contact a qualified electrician to remedy the issue.

You might be able to turn a normal door into a fire-rated door, but you’re better off purchasing one that meets all NFPA 80 standards. If you want to DIY a normal door into a fire door, you’ll need a self-adhesive intumescent seal, metal hinges, fire-resistant glazing, and a self-closing device, but you’re always better off buying a certified fire door.

In addition to flashing, a roof cricket can help divert water around your chimney so that it drains properly off your roof. It’s shaped like a double triangle and is installed behind the chimney so that falling water spills evenly down each side. This helps prevent water from accumulating behind your chimney, which can increase water damage and the risk of leaks. 

The International Building Code (IBC) requires cricket installation if a chimney built after 2012 measures over 30 inches in width. Chimneys constructed before that date are typically grandfathered in and aren’t required to have crickets installed.