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Applying a sealer or topcoat after staining wood is highly recommended, though not always strictly required. A sealer protects the wood from moisture, UV rays, and weather-related issues, which is especially important for outdoor surfaces like decks and fences. It also enhances the stain's durability, prevents fading over time, and gives the wood a cleaner, more professional-looking finish. For some indoor applications, a sealer may not be necessary, depending on the type of stain used and the level of protection needed. It's always best to check the stain manufacturer's recommendations and consider the wood's intended use and exposure when deciding whether to apply a sealer.

Stain is meant to be absorbed by the porous wood, allowing some of the natural grain to show through. With that in mind, you don’t want to add more stain than the wood can absorb, as you risk covering up its natural markings. Generally, two coats is the maximum you should do, although very dense hardwoods may only be able to take a single coat.

Yes, you can paint a chain-link fence, but you don’t want to use spray paint. With the spray method, you’ll be losing a majority of your product to the air, given the size of the gaps in chain-link fences. Instead, use a paintbrush for your fence posts and a paint roller for the wire.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.