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Yes, after the lawn is overseeded post-aeration, most of the seed germinates in the aeration holes. This leaves the soil undisturbed while lush and healthy grass will grow in the holes' place. The point of this is to create extra turf density in areas that really need it, such as a large patch of dead grass where a shed used to be.

While hydroseeding is typically meant for bare soil, it is possible to hydroseed over an existing lawn with some adjustments. For the new seed to germinate and thrive, it needs good seed-to-soil contact. Without it, most of the seed may not take root and will die. To improve your chances of success when repairing a patchy area, mow any existing grass as low as possible and loosen any exposed soil before application. It is also recommended to use a finer mulch mixture when spraying, as this will help the seeds reach the soil and root without suffocating the existing grass.

Choosing between sod and seed depends on your budget, timeline, and maintenance preferences.

Sod:

• Pros: Provides an instant, lush lawn and immediate curb appeal. It's more resistant to weeds and erosion, can be installed any time during the growing season, and offers a consistent appearance.

• Cons: Has a higher upfront cost, typically $0.90 to $1.80 more per square foot than seed. It offers fewer grass varieties and must be installed immediately upon delivery.

Seed:

• Pros: Less expensive upfront, making it a budget-friendly option. It offers a wider variety of grass types and is easier for a DIY installation.

• Cons: Takes much longer to establish, potentially up to two years for a full lawn. It requires more maintenance, including regular weed control, and is more difficult to cultivate.

Ultimately, if you want a beautiful lawn quickly and have a larger budget, sod is an excellent choice. If you are patient, want to save money, and prefer a wider selection of grass types, seeding may be the better option.

This depends on the type of grass seed, as some types do better in different environmental conditions. Cool-season grasses go dormant during the summer months when the soil temperature exceeds 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Once exposed to regular doses of heat, the germination rates decline, with seedling death not far behind. 

As for warm-season seeds, they come from tropical parts of the world and thrive in heat. They actively grow in warm air temperatures between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and they prefer soil temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Once temperatures dip and frost rolls in, if you don’t store them properly, warm-season grass seeds will die quickly.