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Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

A five-gallon bucket of deck stain will cover roughly 875 square feet in a single coat. Actual coverage will vary based on the type of wood you’re staining and the number of coats. If you plan on doing multiple coats, multiply the square footage by the number of coats to calculate how many buckets of stain you’ll need.

Wood stain is not flammable after it dries. The solvent in wood stain is what causes the liquid form to be highly flammable, but the stain drying process involves the solvents dissolving, which leaves behind a non-flammable product on your wood project. Wood stain is, however, flammable before you apply it, so you should always store partially full cans and used wood stain rags away from sources of heat and open flames.

Applying a sealer or topcoat after staining wood is highly recommended, though not always strictly required. A sealer protects the wood from moisture, UV rays, and weather-related issues, which is especially important for outdoor surfaces like decks and fences. It also enhances the stain's durability, prevents fading over time, and gives the wood a cleaner, more professional-looking finish. For some indoor applications, a sealer may not be necessary, depending on the type of stain used and the level of protection needed. It's always best to check the stain manufacturer's recommendations and consider the wood's intended use and exposure when deciding whether to apply a sealer.