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Insulation questions, answered by experts

If you have blown-in insulation, using an insulation vacuum will quickly and easily suck up all the insulation. Many come with built-in HEPA filters for added safety. While some people suggest breaking up large batts and feeding them into the vacuum, this can expose you to more fiberglass fibers. With batts and rolls, carefully removing them and placing them into garbage bags is a better process.

Yes, insulated vinyl siding increases the R-value of your home. Depending on the quality and brand of the insulated vinyl, you can get an R-value that is up to 5 times greater than traditional vinyl siding. This can be fantastic for homeowners who are trying to lower their utility costs.

Yes, basement insulation needs a vapor barrier due to its susceptibility to moisture seeping in from the outside of the house. You should install a moisture barrier before you install insulation or purchase insulation that comes prebuilt with a moisture barrier to avoid water damage in your insulation and costly mold and water remediation expenses. 

You won’t find anything inside a cupola on a house because it’s hollow (think of an upside-down cup), allowing air to ventilate out of a roof via vents and light to come in via windows. They also usually have a base, vents around the middle (usually louvers), and a pointed cap at the top.

The cost to install a radiant barrier ranges from $700 to $2,800, depending on the size of your roof and the type you choose. Most people pay an average of $1,700 to install a radiant barrier. Foil options, both single- and double-sided, cost between $0.10 and $0.90 per square foot, while spray-on options start at $0.60 and go all the way up to $1 per square foot—which can add up quickly.

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