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A standard toilet flange should fit snugly into the outflow pipe and sit level with the subfloor. Installing a new one without first removing the old one will make it impossible to form a seal and keep the toilet bowl bolted securely in place. 

However, if you’re dealing with leakage or wobbling because you’ve installed a new type of bathroom tile (making the floor taller), you may be able to avoid fully replacing the flange by opting for a toilet flange extender. Extenders typically come in kits for easy DIY installation, fit over the existing flange, and bring the drain connection higher.

Yes, you can fill your toilet tank manually to help it flush, or you can pour the water directly into the bowl to flush it manually. This will work for the majority of toilets, as most use a gravity feed system. However, you should only ever use this as a temporary solution. If your toilet tank isn’t filling, you should find out why. First, make sure the speedy valve connected to your toilet and your water main are open. If that doesn’t solve the issue, call in a professional to address the problem.

Basement toilets don’t always need a pump. However, it is the most common setup because plumbing systems use gravity to move waste away from the home. Basement toilets often sit below the home’s main sewage system, and installing a sewage ejector pump pushes the wastewater and sewage up to the main sewer line. Alternatively, you can use an upflush or macerator toilet that breaks down the waste and pushes it straight to the main sewer line rather than via a sewer line from the bathroom.

A running toilet is not a plumbing emergency, but you will want to try some DIY fixes or call in a plumber to prevent wasting gallons of water. The three most common causes of a running toilet are a broken or dirty flapper, an incorrectly sized chain between the flush lever and flapper, or a float that is out of position.