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After flushing the toilet, you should have about half a tank full of water. While the exact amount of water you’ll have will vary, you want to make sure you have enough to cover the bottom of the bowl and enough to sit above the P-trap drain. While low water in your toilet bowl can indicate a problem, too much water can also be cause for concern.

Yes, you should screw your flange to the subfloor, including cement. The best way to get this done is to predrill holes into the concrete using a hammer drill and a ¼-inch concrete bit. Be careful when you’re ready to bolt your flange down, as you can accidentally crack it. You can avoid this issue by not installing the screws too deep. Or, you can opt for a flange with a stainless steel ring so you don’t have to worry about cracking the plastic.

While you shouldn’t increase the flow of your low-flow toilet by adjusting the water level in the toilet bowl set by the manufacturer, you can make the flow as efficient as possible by ensuring the rim jets under the rim are unobstructed. To do this, use a mirror to look under the rim and scrub them with a toothbrush or a small wire to clear any debris stuck in the holes. You can also watch for leaks, make sure the internal components are in good shape, and replace them if necessary.

Technically, you can put an elongated toilet seat on a round toilet, but it’s not a good idea. Elongated toilet seats are a few inches longer than round toilets, so they will hang over the front edge of your toilet, which isn’t appealing. Additionally, an unsupported toilet seat or portion of a toilet seat is more likely to crack and shift, which could result in injury to whoever uses the toilet. Always match your toilet seat style to your toilet, or replace the toilet entirely if you’re looking to switch styles.