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Concrete septic tank risers are heavier and more durable than plastic or fiberglass ones, making them suitable for long-term use. Installing a concrete riser differs from installing plastic or fiberglass risers primarily in the materials and methods used. The process involves cutting the concrete risers to the required length and then stacking them, using concrete sealant or adhesive between sections for secure attachment. Due to their weight, extra care is necessary during leveling and the attachment of sections. Concrete sealant or adhesive may also require a curing before the riser is ready for use.

Most well pump pressure switches have a factory setting of 30 to 50 PSI. There’s some flexibility with this if you’d like a lower or higher water pressure, but remember that it should sit 2 to 3 PSI above your well tank’s general pressure setting.

The inside of your pressure switch cover will usually indicate minimum and maximum settings—going below and above the numbers might damage your well pump.

Unlike an urban sewer system that runs wastewater into a central drainage system, septic tanks are a house-by-house system. They are the ultimate destination for all your house’s wastewater—from bathtubs, showers, sinks, toilets, and washing machines. Wastewater flows into a tank buried in the ground outside your home, and then water runs from the tank to a drainage field using sloped pipes.

The bacteria already present in your septic system should be enough to break down solids in a properly maintained septic tank. However, if you’re in a DIY mood, you can try adding (well-mashed) rotten tomatoes to help the good bacteria fulfill their duty. Just make sure you give them a couple hours to work after flushing them down.