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Asphalt edging secures the sides of your driveway to prevent crumbling and cracking over time. Most driveways have edges with a 45-degree grading. This helps transfer some of the stress from the asphalt to the ground underneath. If your driveway doesn’t have proper edging, the pressure from your car may break down the edges over time.

Concrete is typically the best material for a driveway if you’re looking for longevity, cost-effectiveness, and ease of maintenance. But, it’s not ideal for areas with annual freeze-frost cycles, nor is it the most attractive option—although you can get it stamped or painted. If your location is consistently below freezing, asphalt may be a better choice.

New asphalt goes through two stages: drying and curing. Drying typically takes 24 to 72 hours, after which the surface is solid enough for light use like walking or careful driving. While you may be able to park on it after 72 hours, the surface is still soft and should be treated gently. Full curing is a much longer process, taking anywhere from 30 days to a full year for the asphalt to reach maximum strength. During this extended curing period, the asphalt is susceptible to damage from heavy vehicles, sharp objects, and high temperatures. Factors like weather, the specific asphalt mix, and application thickness all influence drying and curing times. For the most accurate timeline and to ensure the longevity of your new asphalt, it is always best to consult with your installation contractor for their specific recommendations.

While some areas may allow for a slope of up to 20%, this is often the maximum slope for driveways, with a few exceptions of up to 25%. Other regions may have a maximum of 12%, 15%, or 18%, so check with your local building department to ensure you’re laying a driveway that is up to code for your location.