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Since wood is weaker when installed horizontally versus vertically, a horizontal fence is prone to sagging. You can prevent this drooping from happening by building a sturdier fence. Use softwoods that are more stable, such as cedar and redwood, or denser hardwoods for your fence materials. If you can’t afford these pricey materials, use thicker two-by-six pressure-treated pine boards or shorten the span the fence boards have to cover by installing more posts.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

The lifespan of a metal fence varies by specific material and makeup, but even then, all options can last for quite a while. Chain-link and aluminum fencing will look good and function properly for anywhere from 25 to 30 years—provided they’re properly cared for. And corrugated metal fences can live up to 60 years with regular maintenance.

Ideally, when you replace a fence post, you should also replace the concrete footing. The concrete bonds to your new post, creating a secure base. If you install a new post into old concrete, it won’t be as sturdy.

That said, it is possible. Sometimes the post will lift right out of the concrete. If not, you can use a high-lift car jack to try and lift the pole out of the footing. Put the new post into the same hole and backfill it with fast-setting concrete. Keep in mind, this won’t work well for metal posts.