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If you’re removing a ceiling fan without visible screws, start by locating the fan canopy—a round cover placed above the fan blades and motor. There should be a thin ring that can be turned counterclockwise to remove the canopy and reveal the screws. After unscrewing the fan, you can disconnect the wires and remove the entire fan from the mounting hardware. For safety, make sure the fan switch is turned off before you remove the canopy. It may be easier to remove the fan blades first, too.

Fan power is measured by CFM, or cubic feet per minute. For every 1,000 feet of square footage in your attic, you need a minimum of 700 CFM. Steeper roofs may need larger fans or about 840 CFM.  You can figure the size of attic fan you need by multiplying the square footage of your attic floor by 0.7. (multiply by 1.2 for a steep roof and 1.15 for a dark roof). That number is the CFM required for your fan to run efficiently.

When choosing a mounting bracket, you have the option between flush mounts and downrod mounts. Flush mounts are the better option for low ceilings as they feature a lower profile. Downrod mounts are the optimal choice for rooms with high ceilings as they offer a pole that adjusts the height of the fan.

If you’re replacing an old fixture with a ceiling fan, you usually won’t need a permit, but if your electrician runs new wiring for the fixture, you likely will need a permit. Building permits are necessary in most municipalities if you’re making changes to your electrical system, so even if you have partial wiring run to the area and need new wiring installed for added functionality, you’ll probably need a permit. Your electrician should be able to let you know if you need one, and they’ll typically file the paperwork for you.