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If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

When it comes to fiberglass insulation versus foam board, there are a few notable differences, both aesthetically and functionally. Fiberglass insulation is soft and flexible, meaning it can be squeezed into tight spaces more easily than foam board. Fiberglass insulation also has a higher R-value, making it a better pick for colder climates. However, foam board insulation can resist moisture and pest damage much better than fiberglass.

Mineral wool has an excellent life expectancy of up to 50 years, provided it's kept dry and free of pests. Compared to fiberglass, with a life span of 20 to 30 years, mineral wool stacks up well for long-term cost savings. Sheep wool maintains a similar life span to fiberglass, while estimates for hemp wool insulation life expectancies are all over the board, ranging anywhere from 20 to 100 years.

Insulating a detached garage won't reduce your home's heating or cooling bills—and insulating an attached garage will only have a small effect on your home's energy efficiency. However, insulating an attached garage can reduce the transfer of heating and cooling to and from the outdoors, which can reduce the amount of energy your home needs to stay comfortable. Also, having an insulated garage is just more pleasant. Balance the cost of insulating your garage with how you'll use the space to determine if the project is worth it.