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The most common alternative is burning the stump first, then dealing with the cinders and ashes. As you can imagine, this option creates fire hazards, especially since roots can burn underground, hidden, for long afterward. That’s why many states and cities have outlawed the use of stump burning entirely. We do not recommend this option as a viable alternative unless you get a permit from the local fire department and practice all safe burning procedures.

Others prefer a more long-term DIY approach of degrading the stump with home mixtures like Epsom salt and vinegar injected directly into it. This may help the stump decay faster, allowing homeowners to dig it out themselves, but it’s still a lengthy process. It usually takes months for a stump to start falling apart with such treatments, and in the meantime, it can be vulnerable to rot, insects, and other problems.

While you don’t need to put anything down before mulch, you can apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weed growth. As long as you remove weeds before you spread mulch, you should be in the clear. But a herbicide is something that you can put down before mulch as an extra layer of protection.

It’s possible to over-mulch leaves. If the leaf mulch is thick enough that it’s blocking and smothering the grass, that’s a problem. Ideally, you should still be able to see the grass when you’re done mulching to ensure its ability to continue growing. The solution is to make another pass at the top layer of leaf mulch to collect some of the top layer.

Typically, the best type to trim bushes is when they’re dormant. Winter and late fall, potentially even early spring are the best times to trim your bushes. These seasons allow you better access to the branches, as all leaves are gone and the branches are more brittle, making the trimming process easier.