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The driveway apron is a technical term referring to where a private driveway meets the public street. If there is a sidewalk in front of the house, the driveway apron is typically on the opposite side of the public sidewalk from the driveway itself.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

Driveways should be sloped with a minimum 2% slope—anything lower will cause precipitation and runoff to collect. A 2% slope is the equivalent of a 2-foot rise over 100 feet. One quick way to check the integrity of your driveway’s slope: no more than four inches of water should collect on the surface longer than 15 minutes after rain.

Maintaining a driveway depends on its material. For concrete and asphalt, it's best to clean the surface thoroughly twice a year with a stiff broom and a pressure washer to remove accumulated dirt and debris. Sealing the driveway is crucial to protect it from water damage and freeze-thaw cycles. Before applying a sealant, pressure wash the surface to remove any loose sealant, dirt, or stains, as sealing over them will trap them. Any cracks or expansion joints should be filled with a flexible polyurethane caulk or asphalt sealer. In colder climates, use sand instead of salt for de-icing. Sand helps melt snow and ice without accelerating the freeze-thaw process, which can cause cracks.