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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

The life span of insulation is between 20 and 100 years. At that time, existing insulation can fall victim to gravity, resulting in compression, which reduces its insulating protection or R-value. If you can't simply add more insulation over the existing material, removing the old to increase the effectiveness of the new can reduce your energy bills and make the project worth the time and money investment.

One of the clearest signs that your insulation isn’t working as well as it should be is a noticeable difference in temperature throughout your home. One room might feel icy while another is hot as Arizona—this indicates that some parts of your home are either retaining or losing heat more than others. Additionally, a sudden increase in your energy bills, evidence of pests or rodents, or evident water damage are other signals that warrant a thorough inspection of your insulation and potential replacement.

Ductwork should be wrapped in insulation in certain locations. This includes unconditioned interior parts of the home, such as attics, crawl spaces, basement ceilings, and between floors. Duct joints should also be insulated since they're more likely to leak air than other parts of your system. Building codes in some areas also require ductwork to be insulated.