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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

Vapor barriers in attics are a bit outdated and most areas no longer recommend them for attic spaces. For vented attics, the best method is usually to install drywall and cover it with latex paint before attaching insulation fiberglass, cellulose, or foam insulation. When renovating an attic to use as a living space, a contractor can guide you on the best way to cover insulation.

Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

The best type of insulation for your home depends on your specific needs, climate, and the area you are insulating. For new construction, structural insulated panels are a highly energy-efficient option that is easy to install during the building process. In very warm climates, reflective insulation can be a cost-effective choice. For cold climates, fiberglass is an excellent option due to its high R-value and resistance to settling over time. Spray foam works well in humid environments because of its moisture-resistant properties. For standard attics, loose-fill, spray foam, or blown-in insulation are all suitable options.