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A standard toilet flange should fit snugly into the outflow pipe and sit level with the subfloor. Installing a new one without first removing the old one will make it impossible to form a seal and keep the toilet bowl bolted securely in place. 

However, if you’re dealing with leakage or wobbling because you’ve installed a new type of bathroom tile (making the floor taller), you may be able to avoid fully replacing the flange by opting for a toilet flange extender. Extenders typically come in kits for easy DIY installation, fit over the existing flange, and bring the drain connection higher.

Yes, you should screw your flange to the subfloor, including cement. The best way to get this done is to predrill holes into the concrete using a hammer drill and a ¼-inch concrete bit. Be careful when you’re ready to bolt your flange down, as you can accidentally crack it. You can avoid this issue by not installing the screws too deep. Or, you can opt for a flange with a stainless steel ring so you don’t have to worry about cracking the plastic.

The first step to clearing the air in a line is to locate the cause. This is usually a blockage in either the drain or the venting system. Once you clear the issue, flush the system by actually flushing the toilets repeatedly. This should allow the trapped air to escape, thus clearing the lines. Don’t be surprised if there is increased bubbling as the air makes its way through the system. 

While gasket-sealed PVC flanges are the type most commonly found in homes, flanges come in a range of different materials, including copper, brass, stainless steel, cast iron, and aluminum, that pros sometimes secure with glue. If this is the case in your bathroom, the replacement is a job better left to the pros.