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Water expands when heated and also when freezing. When water is heated, it expands by around 4%. For a full water heater, this is one of the main reasons malfunctions occur—the hot water has nowhere else to go but out. Due to the constant expansion and reduction in volume, it’s recommended (required in most places) that an expansion tank be installed.

Homeowners insurance may cover the repair or replacement of a water heater if it's damaged by a covered peril, such as a fire or a burst pipe. However, policies typically do not cover repairs or replacement needed due to normal wear and tear, old age, or lack of maintenance. For these issues, a home warranty or a manufacturer's warranty may provide coverage. While the policy might not pay to fix or replace the malfunctioning appliance itself, it often covers the cost of water damage restoration caused by the faulty water heater. Always check with your insurance provider to understand the specifics of your policy.

Every city and state will have its own set of installation codes and laws. Some won’t require you to obtain a permit before replacing your water heater, though we recommend you do, regardless of the local codes. On the other hand, some cities and states might require secondary permits for plumbing and electrical work related to the installation. Check with a local water heater installation company and local building codes to confirm which permits are required and what the specific laws are.

The standard copper wire gauge to use with any 30-amp circuit is a 10-gauge wire. The National Electric Code specifies a 10-gauge wire with appliances like water heaters running on 30 amps. If you try to use a smaller gauge wire, such as a 12 gauge, with a 30-amp breaker, you run the risk of the wire overheating and melting or causing a fire. Because of the safety hazards, the gauge of the wire is not an area to try to cut costs when connecting a 30-amp breaker to a water heater.