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Try the tool test first. A screwdriver or a similarly long, thin tool will work best, as spades and shovels are too big. If something still seems off despite the screwdriver smoothly going into the soil, look for other signs that you need aeration, like thinning grass, discolored areas, and puddles forming on your lawn after light rain. This indicates poor drainage because of too many areas being compacted.

Hydroseeding over an existing lawn is possible, but certain adjustments are necessary since the process is for bare soil. Hydroseed mix is ​​usually very thick, which helps protect the seeds during germination. If you have existing grass on your site and still want to hydroseed, it's better to use a finer mulch mixture when spraying. A finer mulch mix means the seeds can root into existing soil without suffocating the existing grass.

Yes, you should water the lawn after aerating. Now that you’ve loosened up the soil to better receive nutrients, it’s time to hydrate and fertilize your lawn. You’ll want to keep it evenly moist to promote healthy growth. Don’t drown your grass—too much of a good thing can reverse all the work you’ve done with aeration in the first place. But especially if you’ve overseeded and/or fertilized after aeration, you’ll want to ensure a moist soil layer to absorb those nutrients and fuel for new growth.

When it comes to combatting the effects of soil compaction, core aeration does a far better job for a longer period of time—because it actually removes dirt rather than just pressing holes into it. By taking dirt out from under your lawn, core aeration allows more light, air, water, and nutrients to penetrate into the soil below and help your grass’s roots grow even stronger.