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Large, established tree branches won’t grow roots, but if you find a young tree branch that’s less than about a year old, you’ve got a shot. Put it in water or soil as soon as possible for best results. You’ll know the branch is viable if it’s about the thickness of a pencil and has some leaves or needles.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

It’s not as common for Dutch elm disease to affect other types of trees, especially if the surrounding trees aren’t elms. However, it is possible for DED to spread to other trees, particularly in northern states, like Minnesota. In fact, it’s a good idea to use geography to identify wood and determine which types of trees are in your yard. 

Unfortunately, the complex and shallow root system of elm trees makes surrounding elm trees particularly vulnerable to DED. Early discovery is key!

Ideally, you should wait to prune until trees have gone dormant in late fall to early winter. The worst times to prune trees are early fall and late summer, as pruning them so close to dormancy makes it difficult for the tree recover before it goes dormant for the season.