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Drywall questions, answered by experts

You can take a few steps to save money on drywall installation, even when hiring a professional to do the bulk of the work for you. These ideas include the following:

  • Buy the drywall and other materials yourself to avoid product markup and delivery fees

  • Ask about discounts if you use the same company to tape, spackle, and paint

  • Hire drywall professionals in the winter when demand is the lowest

  • DIY as many parts of the project as possible, like replacing insulation and painting

A common cause of separation between a wall and the ceiling is truss lift—this can happen to the ceiling of rooms directly under the attic when the seasons change and wood building materials dry out, shrink, and shift. Roof trusses often dry out at different speeds, and if the bottom pieces dry out faster than the top pieces, they can shrink and pull the attached drywall away from ceilings and walls, causing cracks. Fortunately, truss lift is only a cosmetic problem, not a structural problem, and you can fix it by separating the ceiling drywall from the roof trusses, and patching the cracks.

Yes, applying a texture can hide minor imperfections and irregularities in drywall, but it will not cover significant damage like nail marks or screw holes. The best texture depends on the size of the flaws. For minor imperfections, popular choices like orange peel, sand, or popcorn texture are effective. For larger imperfections, you may need a more prominent style, such as a knockdown or trowel finish, to conceal them effectively.

Yes, walls on the top floor can be load-bearing if stacked on the floor’s foundation.

Yes, a one-story house can have a load-bearing wall. The load-bearing walls in a single-story home are usually the exterior walls. If the house has a basement with exposed walls, the arrangement of the beams can help indicate what walls are load-bearing.

The Dixon, MO homeowners’ guide to drywall services

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