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For safety reasons, leaning trees are best removed by a professional, as they may often tear away from the hinge, causing you to lose control over where the tree falls. If you choose to cut down a tree leaning slightly, avoid cutting off root protrusions before you start. Make your hinge a little longer than usual by cutting it deeper (up to 30% of the diameter) and applying a wedge into the felling cut on the side the tree is leaning. Stand away from the direction the tree leans while making your felling cut.

Salt, herbicide, light deprivation, boiling water, and burning can all help dissolve a tree stump. You can also bury the tree stump in soil or mulch to help it rot naturally. Killing a tree stump prevents future regrowth, but you may also remove it by digging it out or grinding it.

Some trees will bounce back just fine, and others will struggle and possibly die. Evergreens, for instance, have a very difficult time recovering after droughts and usually die after periods of extreme dryness. Usually, you’ll have to just wait and see—if the drought occurs in wintertime, it’s possible that your tree will recover during the gentler springtime.

Completely topping a plum tree is a risky business. Cut too much, and you’ll kill your tree. That said, you do need to trim the top of your tree to encourage bushy growth, maintain your tree’s vase shape, and limit size. 

A plum tree's central leader (or trunk) should never extend more than 3 feet above the highest branch. When you first plant your tree, cut the central leader so it’s 2 to 3 feet tall. As it grows, cut it back 12 to 20 inches until it reaches its desired height. Never prune more than one-third of the new growth.