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You can shape a cherry tree by trimming vertical branches, dense branches, and intersecting branches. Your personal aesthetic comes into play, as well. If you want to simply thin and shape the tree, you can get away with trimming the aforementioned parts of your cherry tree. If you want to shorten branches, however, consider thinning cuts, which alter the length of the branches while encouraging light penetration, new buds and shoots, and a structurally-sound shape.

Generally, you’ll want to prune back the trunk by 1 to 2 feet each year to promote bushy growth. Doing so concentrates vegetative buds closer to the bottom of the tree, where you can easily harvest fruit. For side shoots that are a year old, leave at least six leaves. 

Never remove more than 30% of a tree’s foliage during pruning—even if your tree is really overgrown. Removing this much foliage at a time could kill your tree.

The best time to prune Japanese flowering cherry trees depends on where you live and the type of flowering cherry tree. Some trees benefit from being pruned toward the end of winter or early spring, after the last freeze. Meanwhile, other trees do well after blooming, in late spring or early summer. Avoid pruning your flowering cherry tree in the early winter, as this encourages open wounds that can lead to infections or infestations. 

A few signs a tree may be dead is if the leaves are dead and there are no signs of new blooms. You can also perform a scratch test on some of the branches to check the condition of the cambium layer beneath the bark.

If it is green, it is still alive, but if several are dry, brittle, and brown, the tree may be dying or dead. Always consult an arborist before assuming your tree is dead because you may be able to save it.