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This creates a risk for your driveway to fail after asphalt curing because it doesn't have a lasting bond with the surface. In order to get asphalt to perform as intended, it's necessary to prepare the dirt surface correctly first. The loose soil base under the new driveway must be compacted until it is stable enough to support the weight of the asphalt.

Driveway aprons typically range between four and seven inches thick, though your town's building codes will likely have specific requirements. Additionally, you may need to add a layer of permeable aggregate in the excavation below your paved apron to ensure proper stormwater drainage.

New asphalt goes through two stages: drying and curing. Drying typically takes 24 to 72 hours, after which the surface is solid enough for light use like walking or careful driving. While you may be able to park on it after 72 hours, the surface is still soft and should be treated gently. Full curing is a much longer process, taking anywhere from 30 days to a full year for the asphalt to reach maximum strength. During this extended curing period, the asphalt is susceptible to damage from heavy vehicles, sharp objects, and high temperatures. Factors like weather, the specific asphalt mix, and application thickness all influence drying and curing times. For the most accurate timeline and to ensure the longevity of your new asphalt, it is always best to consult with your installation contractor for their specific recommendations.

Asphalt is not a type of concrete. While both are a common type of pavement, asphalt is composed of aggregates (like sand and gravel) and bitumen; concrete is a mixture of cement, aggregates, and water. Here are some of the key differences between asphalt and concrete driveways.