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Yes, but it's best to kill off the grass with solarization and remove the dead plant matter before laying down the pavers. This helps limit the chance of your pavers shifting as the dead plant matter decomposes.

While blacktop is a type of asphalt, the terms should not be used interchangeably, as not all asphalt qualifies as blacktop. The primary differences are in their composition, production process, and ideal applications. Blacktop contains more stone than other types of asphalt and is heated to a higher temperature during production—300°F or more—while hot-mix asphalt is heated to between 275°F and 300°F. The ratio of bitumen (a tar-like crude oil) is a key differentiator, though sources vary: some state blacktop has less bitumen, making it less durable, while others claim it has a higher ratio. Due to these differences, asphalt is generally more durable and better for high-traffic areas like highways and streets, while blacktop is more suitable for playgrounds and residential driveways. For a driveway project, it is best to consult a professional to determine the most appropriate material.

You’ll first need to install a base underneath your pavers for extra stability and drainage. Otherwise, the pavers can sink into the ground, and you’ll have to reinstall them. Use a base gravel layer of 4 to 6 inches for walkways and 10 to 12 inches for driveways. Compact your gravel layer every 2 to 4 inches so it’s nice and solid. After you install your gravel base, apply a 1-inch layer of sand on top.

If your new pavers look dull or unclean, it is likely due to efflorescence, a chalky, white powder that forms when lime in the pavers gets wet. This condition often resolves on its own, as rain will naturally wash it away within about a year. For faster results, you can use a pressure washer to clean the pavers. Alternatively, consider using cleaning products specifically designed to remove efflorescence or applying sulfuric acid crystals.