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There are a few reasons your lights may be on, but the rest of your electrical outlets and appliances are not working. The first is that while one circuit blew out, the lights may be on another circuit than your other electrical fixtures. Alternatively, your powerless appliances may be plugged into a GFCI outlet that was tripped and needs to be reset. If these issues aren’t responsible for the problem, you may have dead outlets or a wiring issue. Either way, you should contact an electrician to identify and fix the issue.

There are a few signs of a faulty or failing dimmer switch. This includes your dimmer overheating or feeling warm to the touch, buzzing or clicking noises coming from the dimmer, your dimmer failing to properly dim the lights, and flickering lights. That said, these signs could signal other electrical issues. You’ll need a pro to figure out if your dimmer is the source.

While it’s not possible to put a main breaker in a main lug panel, it’s possible to convert a main lug to a main breaker. Converting to a main breaker panel offers increased safety, simplified control, compliance with building codes, and adaptation to changing electrical needs, especially when adding new circuits or upgrading the system.

Most standard residential water heaters, which are typically around 40 gallons and use 240 volts and between 3,500 and 5,500 watts, require a 30-amp, two-pole circuit breaker. For smaller, point-of-use water heaters using 120 volts and between 1,500 and 3,000 watts, a 30-amp breaker is also often adequate. However, some models may have different needs; units that use more watts than average may require a 40-amp breaker, while smaller units might only need a 20-amp breaker. Newer, tankless, or more energy-efficient models can also require a higher amperage. Having the correct breaker size is crucial for safe and efficient operation, so it's best to consult a licensed electrician to determine the specific needs of your water heater.