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Driveways should be sloped with a minimum 2% slope—anything lower will cause precipitation and runoff to collect. A 2% slope is the equivalent of a 2-foot rise over 100 feet. One quick way to check the integrity of your driveway’s slope: no more than four inches of water should collect on the surface longer than 15 minutes after rain.

Gravel is one of the few driveway materials that can handle rain the second it’s installed. Unlike asphalt, which needs days to set, or concrete, which requires weeks to cure, gravel is ready as soon as it’s compacted. It’s naturally permeable, allowing water to drain straight through—with no risk of pooling or surface damage. Gravel driveways are one of the most affordable, at $1 to $3 per square foot, and can also last upward of 100 years.

The answer to whether or not you need to get a permit before you start your driveway can vary widely based on local ordinances and the scope of your driveway ideas. In most urban and suburban areas, a permit is needed before building a new driveway to ensure that a homeowner is using safe materials and proper drainage practices while designing and constructing a new driveway. In some rural areas, a homeowner may not be required to apply for a permit. When building a new driveway on your own, always check with your local building department to see if you need to request a permit. When hiring a driveway contractor, verify that the right permits are being used before driveway construction begins.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.