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After removing existing moss, consider using paver blocking sand to fill the joints. This specialty material hardens once placed and serves as an effective barrier against moss and weeds. From there on, regularly clean your pavers and try to keep them dry. You can also seal your paver as a semi-permanent solution — just make sure you reseal every 3 to 5 years.

The layer of polymeric sand under the pavers plus the polymeric sand that gets swept into the joints between your pavers holds them in place in a few ways. For one, the gritty texture of the sand helps lock the pavers together. Polymeric sand also contains bonding agents that get activated by water. Polymeric sand will take between 24 and 48 hours to fully cure, so do not walk on your paver walkway before this time.

The answer to whether or not you need to get a permit before you start your driveway can vary widely based on local ordinances and the scope of your driveway ideas. In most urban and suburban areas, a permit is needed before building a new driveway to ensure that a homeowner is using safe materials and proper drainage practices while designing and constructing a new driveway. In some rural areas, a homeowner may not be required to apply for a permit. When building a new driveway on your own, always check with your local building department to see if you need to request a permit. When hiring a driveway contractor, verify that the right permits are being used before driveway construction begins.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.