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Retaining Wall Installers questions, answered by experts

Sand and gravel are two suitable options for filling behind a retaining wall. If you’re building your own retaining wall, you’ll complete this part of the process—known as backfilling—after you finish laying the blocks. Make sure not to skip it—otherwise, you could wind up with drainage issues, which can cause your retaining wall to collapse.

Failure to compact the soil during construction is the most common cause of leaning retaining walls. In addition, poor drainage can lead to excessive water pressure behind a retaining wall, pushing against it until it begins to move forward away from the soil it is holding back.

Each design is different, so we can’t say definitively if you’ll need a dedicated drainage system in place for a two-foot retaining wall. However, you can likely skip the drainage, as this project is typically served for walls that are 4 feet tall or more. Even with a relatively low wall, consider drainage if you are building on top of clay or poor-draining soil types or if there are buried water sources nearby, like a well used for other outdoor garden projects.

Most railroad tie retaining walls have a life span of 20 to 30 years, though you may need to replace your wall sooner if it’s repeatedly exposed to heavy rain, runoff, and excess moisture. Railroad ties are typically treated with creosote, which makes them much more durable than untreated wood. Though they last longer, they don’t last forever. For the most longevity, make sure your retaining wall has a sturdy base and steel reinforcements. You should also install drainage to direct water away from the wall.

DIY is possible for small projects. Professional installation ensures structural integrity and durability for larger walls.

The Eureka, IL homeowners’ guide to retaining wall installation services

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