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Radon Detection and Reduction questions, answered by experts

The fan that pulls the radon out of the air needs to run continuously, so you may see an increase in your electric bill once you install the mitigation system. Additionally, you may see an increase in your heating or cooling bills, as the fan can cause some loss of hot or cool air.

A homeowner can install a radon mitigation system on their own. But it’s a challenging DIY that requires a lot of knowledge about radon mitigation as well as familiarity with local regulations. You do not want to risk an improper installation that leaves the system unable to detect radon or gives it a shortened life span. Relying on a professional is the surest way to guarantee a successful installation.

No level of radon is technically safe, but since it is present everywhere, complete avoidance is impossible. The average radon level in homes across the United States is 1.3 picocuries per liter (pCi/L). The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends taking preventative measures if your home's radon levels are between 2 and 4 pCi/L or higher.

Radon enters your home when warm air begins to rise and exits through the roof, creating a vacuum that pulls cooler air from under the foundation. Part of that air is radon, which is an invisible, odorless gas that develops naturally when radioactive particles are deep within the ground. Those particles usually come from decaying matter in soil and rocks.

Your radon fan needs to operate 24/7 to be effective. The only time the fan isn't operating is during its replacement. Radon levels in the home can increase within hours if the fan stops working or something obstructs the stack vent. Fortunately, radon systems require no downtime maintenance between fan changes.

The Atwood, IL homeowners’ guide to radon detection and reduction services

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