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Painted exterior brick does not usually need sealing. Brick is a porous material, so you don’t want to apply a sealant that could trap moisture inside the bricks and cause erosion and structural damage. The risk of moisture-induced damage after sealing is higher in colder climates where trapped moisture can expand if it freezes. On the other hand, it makes sense to seal really old brick or kitchen backsplashes, where moisture from cooking can weaken the brick.

It’s called cobblestone because it’s made of stones that are “cobbed” together. A cob is a term that refers to rounded lumps. Originally, cobblestone streets were made from pebbles and stones gathered from riverbeds that had been rounded over time by the passage of water. The term has nothing to do with a cobbler, which is the term for someone who makes and fixes shoes.

Choose from an abundance of natural and synthetic options when perfecting your hardscape design. Stone veneer costs a bit less, holds up against the tests of time and weather, and also works best in curves and complex walls.

Natural stone, however, provides an organic look to a lawn while providing just as much strength as veneer. Don't forget you can chat with your mason about other common wall materials like brick, cinderblock, and concrete.

When painting brick, each application method has distinct advantages and disadvantages. Spraying is significantly faster but may not penetrate deeply beyond the surface layer. Rolling is effective for working paint into the brick's texture but can be less effective on mortar joints. If you opt for a roller, choose a thick nap of at least a half-inch to ensure paint gets into all the crevices for even coverage. Using a brush is generally not recommended as it is very time-consuming and provides poor surface penetration. Ultimately, a combination of spraying followed by back-rolling is often the best strategy for a durable and even finish.