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Technically, you can start tiling in a corner and work your way out. However, it's not traditionally how tiling is done. Instead, work from the bottom middle of the wall. Tile out the entire row with whole tiles before moving on to the next row. Once you finish installing all of the whole tiles, then you focus on tiling the corners.

Installing kitchen countertop tiles on a mold and moisture-resistant cement backer board is one of the best options. When fitted correctly on top of a plywood base, it’s stable and long-lasting. Old-fashioned cement board is economical, cuts neatly and easily with a circular or jigsaw, and screws into plywood without any difficulty.

No, when done correctly, removing the tile shouldn’t damage the subfloor. However, if there was pre-existing damage to the subfloor from standard use or lack of maintenance, the subfloor may need repairs. For example, if the contractors notice mold growth on the subfloor or an uneven surface, you may need more extensive services before installing new tile.

If you DIY tile removal, remove the tiles one step at a time, individually removing the tile, grout, and mortar to prevent unnecessarily damaging the subfloor. Depending on the age of your home, consider having a professional inspect the subfloor to ensure it’s in good enough condition to lay new tile.

Yes, unfortunately, it is normal for wall and floor tiles to crack, especially when you drop heavy items on tiled floors or place heavy objects on them. Tiles are also more susceptible to cracking when ceramic tiles designed for walls are installed on floors, as these are often not strong enough to handle heavy loads from foot traffic and furniture. Similarly, tiles that are installed incorrectly, lack adequate subflooring, or have other installation problems are prone to cracking. To avoid these problems and the inevitable repair and replacement costs they bring, always hire a professional for tile work and follow best practices for installation.