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The age of your home can clue you in to whether you have plaster or drywall ceilings. Homes built after the ‘70s are more likely to have drywall ceilings and walls, while older homes have plaster. You can also do the pushpin test: A pushpin will go into drywall, whereas it’s much harder to push one into a plaster wall. If you’re still unsure, ask a drywall professional to let you know which type of ceilings and walls you have.

Look for flaking paint or air bubbles that burst and then flake away. Paint will begin to flake after being exposed to minimal moisture or water, so it’s a good indicator of any water damage. If you notice your paint starting to flake, feel the plaster underneath to see if it is soft or damp.

Drywall can be installed directly on ceiling joists. In fact, this method is common in many construction projects. Drywall sheets are attached to the joists using screws, ensuring a secure and stable installation. Before attaching the drywall, it's important to mark the joist locations on the ceiling, allowing for accurate screw placement. Proper spacing between screws and careful taping and mudding of joints are crucial to creating a smooth and flawless ceiling surface. If the joists are in good condition and level, installing drywall directly on them is a practical and efficient approach.

A common cause of separation between a wall and the ceiling is truss lift—this can happen to the ceiling of rooms directly under the attic when the seasons change and wood building materials dry out, shrink, and shift. Roof trusses often dry out at different speeds, and if the bottom pieces dry out faster than the top pieces, they can shrink and pull the attached drywall away from ceilings and walls, causing cracks. Fortunately, truss lift is only a cosmetic problem, not a structural problem, and you can fix it by separating the ceiling drywall from the roof trusses, and patching the cracks.