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Spreading tin foil over your windows works similarly to radiant barrier insulation, but not as well. It will reflect some of the sunlight that would otherwise come through the glass and warm up the inside of your home, so it might help a little to keep your home cool in the summer. However, the appearance isn’t preferable to blinds or drapes that can offer the same benefits. You might also consider tinting your windows instead, which is a more aesthetically pleasing change that can still block a good portion of the solar heat coming through your windows.

Bubble wrap is better for moving since it can be cut to size, whereas dish foam comes in precut sheets that are harder to manipulate. However, if you’re packing items like dishes, wine glasses, picture frames, or mirrors, dish foam will protect them better. Ensure you measure your box beforehand so you know what size dish foam to purchase. 

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

The most affordable way to insulate behind unfinished walls is to install fiberglass batts or rolls. These total around $0.75 per linear foot, with the width matching the gaps between standard studs perfectly. However, it’s important to consider the R-value of your insulation and the climate in your area, as fiberglass insulation isn’t the best in terms of preventing heat transfer. Plus, the most affordable option may cost more on electricity bills over time. The most affordable way to insulate behind finished walls is to leave them up and use blown-in insulation to avoid drywall replacement.