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Most people prefer to keep the fence level by “stepping” the fence when running a horizontal fence over a slope. Stepping involves raising each panel between the posts as the fence moves over changes in slope, giving the fence line the appearance of stair steps. While this may be the preferred method of running a horizontal fence up a slope, there’s nothing wrong with installing your fence so it follows the undulations in the ground instead.

If 20% or more of your fence is damaged, pros will often tell you that it’s a better use of your money to replace the fence entirely. Severe rotting and insect damage always call for a replacement. However, if you’re just dealing with a few loose posts or a little bit of mildew growth, you can repair the fence.

On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

You’ll need to bury the garden fence about 1 foot underground. It’s tempting to save on materials by burying the fence just a couple of inches, but if you do so, determined pests will still be able to dig under the fence and access your plants. Burying your garden fence deep into the soil is an important step that allows you to attach a wire barrier to the fencing. 

Burrowing animals (like voles, moles, rabbits, and gophers) can’t dig or chew through this wiring, meaning that you’ll be keeping your prized petunias or your robust veggie garden from being eaten.