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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

Yes, you can install insulation behind drywall yourself, but only if your walls are not finished. If your studs are exposed, installing fiberglass insulation in roll or batt form is very straightforward and just requires a few tools and some safety equipment. If your walls are already finished and you’re looking to add insulation, it’s better to hire a professional, as you’ll likely need blown-in insulation, which can be dangerous to work with and a challenge to get into the proper areas in your wall voids.

R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

Radiant barriers and insulation serve different purposes, so one is not inherently better than the other. Radiant barriers reflect radiant heat, helping keep spaces cool, especially in hot climates, while insulation slows heat transfer through conduction. For optimal energy efficiency, it’s best to use both together. 

Radiant barriers can enhance the performance of insulation by preventing heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter. The choice between them depends on specific climate conditions and the building’s design requirements.