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Basement toilets don’t always need a pump. However, it is the most common setup because plumbing systems use gravity to move waste away from the home. Basement toilets often sit below the home’s main sewage system, and installing a sewage ejector pump pushes the wastewater and sewage up to the main sewer line. Alternatively, you can use an upflush or macerator toilet that breaks down the waste and pushes it straight to the main sewer line rather than via a sewer line from the bathroom.

After flushing the toilet, you should have about half a tank full of water. While the exact amount of water you’ll have will vary, you want to make sure you have enough to cover the bottom of the bowl and enough to sit above the P-trap drain. While low water in your toilet bowl can indicate a problem, too much water can also be cause for concern.

If you’ve accessed the bolts and nuts that hold your toilet seat in place and can’t unscrew them, it’s possible that they were overtightened or that the material corroded over time, making it impossible to unscrew. If that’s the case, you can either call in a plumber for help, or you can DIY a solution if you’re careful. Lay down masking tape around the mounting bracket and then use the tape as a surface to lay a hack saw blade. Move slowly to cut through the bracket and bolt, being careful not to damage the porcelain in the process.

To drain a broken toilet, place towels or plastic sheeting around the base in case of splashing or overflowing. Next, shut off the toilet’s water supply, usually via a valve on the wall behind the toilet. Begin flushing the handle to remove as much water as possible from the tank and the bowl. Don’t flush the toilet if it’s clogged, though. From there, use a large sponge to soak up any remaining water and wring it over a bucket.