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Fire Pit Installation questions, answered by experts

Grounding is a great first step to prevent electrical shock, but you can take it further with GFCI outlets and AFCIs (arc fault circuit interrupters). In particular, AFCIs help protect against the type of electrical arcs that cause fires, like if a mouse chews on a wire or your laptop starts overheating at the wall. These are required in some areas of your home.

Start by checking the top or side edge of the door. Look for a certification label or metal tag stamped with details like the fire rating and information on the manufacturer. Even if it’s painted over, the tag should still be visible. Next, look along the edges for slim intumescent strips. They’re designed to swell up and seal gaps when exposed to heat. Finally, check if the door closes itself. Most fire doors have a self-closing mechanism, like an overhead closer or spring hinges. If none of these are obvious, contact a fire safety professional to help verify your door. 

A grease fire starts if hot cooking oil comes into contact with a heat source, such as an electric heating element or the flame on a gas range. Once the grease is ignited, it can be very difficult to put out. 

A chimney liner isn’t required for an outdoor fireplace; you don’t technically need one if the masonry chimney uses the proper dimensions and is built to code. However, a chimney liner does serve as a protective coating for the flue. Adding a liner could improve performance, safety, and durability. In short, while not necessary, it wouldn’t hurt.

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) says you can place smoke detectors on either the ceiling or the wall, depending on the setup of your room. Since smoke rises, the ceiling makes sense, but if you go with a wall mounting, the alarm should be installed high up—no less than 12 inches from the ceiling. 

The Hilmar, CA homeowners’ guide to fire pit installation services

From average costs to expert advice, get all the answers you need to get your job done.